The Best Way To Spend 2 Days Paddling Vancouver’s North Shore
By Mathew Wanbon
It’s a moment of magic when you pass over the Iron Workers Memorial Bridge and, shortly after, leave the concrete jungle of metropolitan Vancouver and enter the forested beauty of Vancouver’s North Shore. I love being able to transition from having all the amenities of a large city to being surrounded by snow-capped mountaintops, towering old-growth forests, and the turquoise waters of the shoreline, all within less than an hour’s drive. Indian Arm is BC’s southernmost fjord, which extends roughly 20 km north from the Burrard Inlet. While this waterway, with its steep mountain walls and shorelines dotted with waterfalls and old-growth forests, was the primary focus of this trip to the North Shore, the nearby food and drink options were a much-appreciated cherry on top.
Day 1 – Deep Cove
I ventured down to Deep Cove with photographer Dave Heath to meet up with Mike Darbyshire from Deep Cove Kayaks. We then connected with David Morris and his partner Katherine Town, who are both avid kayak racers from North Vancouver. As soon as we walked down onto the beach, I was taken aback by the epic view. The cove opens up to the main channel of the Indian Arm with Jug Island and layers of the Coastal Mountains jutting upward in the background.
We made our way down to the water with the help of the staff from Deep Cove Kayaks, who ensured we were all sorted out with the right gear and safety knowledge. David and Katherine opted for a double kayak, which they said was a nice change from the single surfski kayaks and outrigger canoes they were used to racing in. The rest of us hopped in singles, and we all launched into the water. The good thing about Deep Cove is how sheltered it is compared to other popular paddling destinations, such as English Bay, which can get hit by strong western winds.
We paddled out of Deep Cove into the main channel of the Indian Arm over to Jugg Island. To get there, we paddled along the south shore of Deep Cove until we rounded the corner where the cove opened up to the main channel of the fjord. From there, we crossed the Indian Arm Channel directly to its east shore. We then followed the east shore north until we reached Jug Island. It was the perfect day for a paddle. Sunshine, no clouds, a light breeze, and warm temperatures that were much appreciated after a colder-than-usual spring. As we paddled, we saw seals, moon jellyfish, schools of minnows and blue herons hanging out on the shoreline.
Once we got back to Deep Cove, David and Katherine played around in the single kayaks by the marina for a bit before we all headed over to Deep Cove Collective for ice cream. Deep Cove Collective is a funky little gift store that sells handcrafted local artisan wares and an array of beach toys. But most importantly, they serve the best real-fruit ice cream I’ve had in a long time. David and Katherine enjoyed blueberry and blackberry-flavoured cones, while I had a rosemary-flavoured cone to enjoy a sweet and savoury combo. We then popped across the street to Honey Donuts, a shop that has been a fixture in Deep Cove since 1996. Nothing is better than ending a great day of paddling with some tasty treats from a local business.
Day 2 – Cates Park
The following day, Dave and I joined a group stand-up paddleboard lesson with Mike Darbyshire and two youths named Simon and Nicola at Cates Park. For the Tsleil-Waututh people, the land where this park is located is called Whey-Ah-Wichen, which means ‘faces the wind.’ Presumably, they gave this place its name because it is on the mouth of the Indian Arm and is exposed to greater winds travelling up the Burrard Inlet. This area was traditionally used as a small village site during the spring and summer when the Tsleil-Waututh people gathered resources such as wild game, berries, and other flora and fauna crucial to their way of life. Today, Takaya Tours, an Indigenous-owned business, operates on the beach and offers rentals, lessons, and cultural canoe tours. The canoe tour is at the top of my list for my next paddling trip to North Vancouver.
When we walked out onto the beach, I first noticed how spacious and quiet it was compared to the busier feeling at Deep Cove. It almost felt like we were the only ones there. It was low tide, and the expansive beach looked like the perfect spot to sit out, picnic, and swim. But rather than laying around in the sun, we were there to paddle.
We prebooked paddleboard rentals from Takaya Tours, and the staff already had the paddleboards on the beach waiting for us. Before we knew it, we were out on the water. Fortunately, on this day, the beach did not live up to its traditional name, and there was very little wind, making for a pleasant paddling experience.
Mike walked us through some instructions, such as how to stand on the board for proper balance, how to paddle, and some water safety. He taught us that we were legally required to wear a life jacket or PFD while travelling from one location to another out on the paddle board, which was news to me. Additionally, he shared the importance of wearing the leash so that you do not lose your board if you fall in the water. We also brought essential items, such as our cell phone, sunscreen and snacks, in a dry bag for obvious reasons. Finally, he shared with us the often-overlooked importance of safety in numbers. It is best to paddle with at least one other person whenever possible so that you are not alone should you capsize or run into any other problems.
After receiving our lesson, we put our new skills to the test and paddled around the beach before stopping to enjoy a swim in the clear ocean water. All the time spent in the sun called for another ice cream cone. Fortunately, we only had to walk up the beach to Wally’s Burgers to get what we sought. Wally’s Burgers serves delicious ice cream cones from their little hut on the beach, along with burgers, hot dogs, and milkshakes. We sat at a nearby table and enjoyed our treat under the hot afternoon sun.
All Photos by Dave Heath
After everyone parted ways, Dave and I headed to the nearby Raven Pub, a staple in the community since 1979. Dave enjoyed a pint of Guinness, which happened to be on sale, and I had an ice-cold, non-alcoholic Heineken. As the road trip was coming to an end, I reflected on the last two days. Deep Cove provided easy access to explore a seemingly endless stretch of remote feeling natural spaces. It was hard to believe that we were so close to the city. Cates Park was less sheltered from the city as we could see Burnaby on the other side of the Burrard Inlet, but it did offer a spacious beach with lots of space to hang out. It’s a much better destination if you’re looking for a beach day with the family. That being said, both locations offered easy access to paddling and had an ice cream shop within walking distance. What more could you ask for?